A strange noise while driving is one of the most common reasons people call a repair shop, and it is also one of the hardest things to describe. The good news is that cars tend to make particular sounds at particular moments. If you pay attention to when a noise happens, you can usually narrow it down to a handful of systems before anyone picks up a wrench. When you are ready for a definitive answer, our diagnostic and car check service uses a road test and hands-on inspection to pin it down.
This article sorts noises by the driving situation. If the sound seems to come from under the hood even when the car is parked, see our separate guide to engine noises and what they mean.
Noises when you brake
Brakes are the first suspect for any sound that appears only when you press the pedal.
- High-pitched squeal: many brake pads have a small metal tab that rubs the rotor when the pad gets thin. It is designed to be annoying so you notice it.
- Grinding or growling: this usually means the friction material is gone and metal is contacting the rotor. Stopping distance can suffer and rotor damage gets worse with every stop.
- Clunk when you first brake: loose caliper hardware or worn suspension parts can shift as the weight of the car moves forward.
For more on what your brakes are telling you, read our article on the warning signs of failing brakes.
Noises when you turn
Turning loads the suspension, steering and axles in ways that straight driving does not.
- Clicking or popping in tight turns: a worn outer CV joint on a front-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive car is the usual cause.
- Whine while turning the wheel: on cars with hydraulic power steering, this can mean low fluid or a struggling pump.
- Creak or groan at low speed: dry or worn ball joints, sway bar bushings or strut mounts often creak when you turn into a driveway.
Noises over bumps
A clunk, knock or rattle when you go over a speed bump, a rough patch of Lebanon Pike or a railroad crossing points toward the suspension. Common sources include worn sway bar links, control arm bushings, ball joints and shock or strut mounts. A loose heat shield on the exhaust can also rattle over bumps, which is a fairly harmless cause but still worth fixing. Suspension wear affects handling and tire life, so our suspension and steering repair team checks these parts during an inspection.
Noises that change with speed
If a sound gets louder and higher in pitch as the car goes faster, regardless of whether you are accelerating or coasting, it is tied to the rotating parts at the wheels.
- Hum or growl: a worn wheel bearing is a frequent culprit. So is uneven tire wear, sometimes called cupping, which can make a rhythmic roar.
- Rhythmic thump: a tire with a flat spot, a separated belt or an object stuck in the tread.
- Whistle or wind noise: a worn door or window seal, or something loose on a roof rack.
Noises when you accelerate
Sounds that follow engine speed rather than road speed point to the engine, exhaust or transmission. A buzz or rattle under acceleration can be an exhaust leak or loose shield. A whine that rises as you accelerate may involve the transmission or, on some vehicles, the differential. A clunk when shifting into drive or reverse can mean worn engine or transmission mounts.
When to stop driving
Some noises can wait a few days for an appointment. Others should not. Pull over safely and arrange to have the car moved if you hear loud metal-on-metal grinding while braking, a sudden bang followed by a change in how the car drives, a severe knocking from the engine, or a noise that comes with a warning light, a burning smell or smoke. When in doubt, it is safer not to keep driving.
Have the noise checked
Noises rarely fix themselves, and a small problem caught early is usually simpler to repair. Bring your car to Music City Auto Repair in Hermitage and tell us when you hear it. We will road test it with you if you like, find the source, and give you an estimate before any work begins. Call 615-600-5994 to set up a time.
Frequently asked questions
What does a clicking noise when turning sharply usually mean?
On front-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive vehicles, a rhythmic clicking or popping during tight turns, such as in a parking lot, is a classic sign of a worn outer CV joint. It often starts after the rubber boot around the joint tears and lets grease out and dirt in. Catching it early can sometimes mean replacing a boot instead of the whole axle.
Why does a humming noise get louder as my car speeds up?
A hum or growl that rises with road speed, not engine speed, often comes from a worn wheel bearing or from tires with uneven wear. A bearing noise may change when you gently weave left and right on an empty road, because the load shifts from one side to the other. A technician can confirm the source by checking the wheels for play and inspecting tread wear.
How can I describe a car noise so a mechanic can find it?
Note when the sound happens (cold start, braking, turning, accelerating, over bumps or at a certain speed), where it seems to come from, and what it sounds like, such as a squeal, grind, clunk, click or hum. If it is safe, a short phone recording made by a passenger can also help. These details make the inspection quicker and more accurate.
Pay for Check Engine Light & Engine Diagnostics over time
Have an estimate from our shop? Enter the amount and choose Affirm at checkout to see your monthly payment options. Financing is provided by Affirm and subject to approval.